Monday, December 6, 2010

Food: Both High & Low Culture


Irving Penn's still life for Vogue


Food, like all other commodities has not escaped the unforgiving grasp of technology. With technology, comes the inevitable desire to collaborate and mix disciplines. While, food is not necessarily mixing other disciplines, it is indeed advocating the use of "unconventional" ingredients, and making it readily-acceptable through the use of technology. In a New York Times article, it was stated that chefs ages 18 to 34 (larger than the young adult bracket!) are more likely to find recipes online than in a cookbook. These websites suggest extensive recipes for these basic ingredients, some that go beyond the ingredients primary intention. Take Kellogg's cereal for example. In the morning, when pouring my bowl of corn flakes, I was surprised to see a recipe for Double-Coated Chicken on the side of what I thought was my culinarily consistent box of cereal.

While this example made my stomach churn, the unconventional use of conventional food is taking place in a gourmet sphere as well. Take for example, the popular television show Top Chef (On Bravo). One of the challenges in the show in last spring's season was to make a considerably gourmet meal out of Kwik-E-Mart products. The outcomes had mixed reviews from the panel, over all, they enjoyed the maple banana bread pudding the most, leaving the Cheeto's macaroni with grilled slim jims and tomato soup, and crispy rice cake in clamesco sauce as close seconds.

While the Kwik-E-Mart challenge seems extreme (as it was to test the young chefs) Many New York Eateries, such as No. 7 Sub which recently opened at The Ace Hotel, are mixing both high & low culture. For example, you can order a sandwich with potato chips and pickled jalapenos, alongside the more coveted fontina cheese. The high brow /low brow food culture is spreading in metropolitan areas, and quickly. This spread, as are most spreads is the result of technology. Television, the internet, and even basic advertising (as i noticed on my Kellogg's box) are acknowledging the desire to make use, and embrace more conventional foods.

With food however, the taste seems to be the most deciding factor. While the sandwich from No.7 proved to be a tantalizing amalgamation of flavors, not everyone feels that "everyday food" pleases their taste buds. In response to Kellogg's "Honey Flaked Chicken" recipe, "Rooshka" writes: "So Bad. It was way too sweet and soggy. Nobody at the table liked it."